DRAGONMOUNT

It was with great pleasure today that Dragonmount learned The Wheel of Time Companion had been nominated for a prestigious World Fantasy Award. This award honors the very best in fantasy literature and art each year. They are awarded by the World Fantasy Convention, which will take place this year in Columbus, Ohio on October 27-30. The Companion is nominated in the category of Special Award, Professional. The World Fantasy Award, alongside the Hugo and the Nebula awards, is considered one of the highest honors in speculative fiction.    The Wheel of Time Companion was edited by Harriet McDougal, Maria Simons and Alan Romanczuk. Harriet was the primary editor of the series, as well as the wife of author Robert Jordan. Alan and Maria both served as continuity editors for the series. The Companion is an encyclopedia style compendium of the characters, places and objects named in The Wheel of Time series. Some sections were taken directly from Jordan's vast notes.    We do not yet know if any members of Team Jordan plan on attending the award ceremony. In 2014, when the series was nominated for a Hugo, both Harriet and Maria traveled to the London WorldCon and appeared on programming.  

Welcome back to “Fandom Flair.”  This week, I’ll show you how to make an Ajah inspired quilt.  Of course, like most of the projects I’ve shown, this is completely customizable!  More on that in a moment.  First, here’s a list of materials:   About 72 inch x 11 inch rectangle of fabric in all seven Ajah colors About 4 yards of a backing fabric White fabric (for the Flame of Tar Valon) 9 yards bias tape Quilt batting for a 72 inch x 72 inch quilt Clear quilter’s thread Sewing machine Scissor Pins Measuring tape   Step 1: Select your fabrics   I decided to attempt this project with my sister, Mavin.  This quilt requires little bits of a lot of fabrics, so it made sense to divide the cost in half.  We wound up purchasing two yards of each fabric (giving us our desired 72 inch length), then slicing it in half width wise to divvy it up between us.  We both got 72” x 37” rectangles from all our seven fabrics.  With my half, I was able to cut that 37” in half again, giving me my need 11” width and an extra 27” left over for other projects.   We selected our fabrics with patterns.  This added just a bit more character and individuality to the quilt instead of having just plain cotton colors.  Because of this, we selected a pattern that fit each Ajah’s theme—even if only in our minds.  The blue looks lacy and regal, like my idea of Moiraine.  The green is leafy, like a Warder’s fancloth cloak.  The brown has swirls inside, like the chapter icon for Tel’aranrhiod, and that reminds me of Verin, who gave the dream ter’angreal to Egwene so long ago.  This is where you can customize to your specific wants.  Make this quilt completely your own!     For the back fabric, I wanted to have that secret Ajah incorporated, so I chose a black with white flowers.  Mavin, wanting to go for comfort and personal Ajah identification, chose a yellow fleece.  Once again, pick what’s special for you.  It makes the finished product that much more meaningful.     For the Flame of Tar Valon, I picked a white satin I had on hand.  Mavin used a white fleece to match her backing.   Step 2: Cut your fabrics   As I said, we had the intention of slicing each cut of fabric in half, giving us each a 72” by 37” rectangle.  I played with several ways to set up the quilt—one version using the whole 37” of each color—but decide it would look best as a square.  Since our lengths were 72”, that meant our width needed to be equal to that.  Simple math says you divide the total by seven to get about 10.5” per color (including seam allowance).  It’s easiest to use a rotary cutter and a cutting mat to trim the rectangles to the proper length.   Step 3: Sewing the face   I am going to call the side with the seven Ajah colors “the face,” or the front, of the quilt.  The Black Ajah is, of course, the back.  For the Ajah colors, I wanted to have them appear in the order that they are on the Amyrlin Stole, so I had to look at an example in canon where they are shown.  The order, from top to bottom, is: Blue, Green, Yellow, Red, Gray, White, and Brown.   First take your blue and green fabrics and place them atop each other, right side to right side, with the green fabric on top.  Straight stitch them together along the right edge.      When you flip them open, the blue is on the left side; this will signify up, or the top.   Next, lay the green flat and put the yellow on top, right side to right side.  Again, stitch up the right side.  When you open them, you have blue, then green, then yellow.   Lay the yellow flat and place the red fabric on top, right side to right side.  Stitch up the right side.  Now you have blue, green, yellow, and red.   Sew the gray onto the red.  Sew the white onto the gray.  Sew the brown onto the white.   When you lay it flat, it should look like this:     You’re done with the face!   Step 4: Backing   Since you can’t buy fabric that is 72”x72”—at least, as far as I know—you need to construct the back to be the proper size.  I cut my 4 yards of backing fabric in half, giving me two 2 yard pieces.      Since the length was already 72”, I didn’t need to change that.  But the width on both was 52”.  I sewed the two pieces together, right side to right side, along their 72” side.  This gave me a 72” by 104” rectangle.  This created a lot of waste since I wanted the seam to be right in the middle, but I saved the scraps for other projects.     Step 5: The Flame of Tar Valon   You could just as easily add the Flame to the face of the quilt.  I think it would look great either way.  I didn’t want to cover up any of my beautiful Ajah fabrics, so I decided to put it on the back.  I cut my white satin into a circle, then drew out the sinuous line that separates both sides.      If done correctly, this will give you two equally sized Flames.  Since my satin was a bit thin, I layered both of these pieces to give me a more opaque finish.     Measure to the center of your backing fabric, both length and width.  Pin your Flame in place.  Stitch around the edge with a white thread, or the clear quilter’s thread.      If you’re using a fabric that frays—like my satin—I’d recommend using Frey Check on the outside edges to keep the seam clean.  This can be applied before or after you sew it down.   Step 6: Stacking the quilt   With the face and the back done, we can start laying the quilt.  Place the backing face down on the floor.  Next, lay down the batting.  Finally, lay the front of the quilt face up.      Pin all three layers together and trim the batting and backing to the same size as the face.  You may see a lot of excess fabric from the backing, but don’t panic.  You can save it!   Never underestimate fabric scraps!   Step 7: Quilting   If you’ve seen traditional quilts, you’ve probably noticed that the layers get sewn to each other in a sort of pattern.  Typically, if the quilt is made up of squares, the quilting line goes diagonal through the squares' corners.  Since we’re dealing with rectangles, and ones that are divided quite clearly already, I didn’t want the diagonal stitching to be a distraction.  I decided to stitch in the ditch with the clear quilter’s thread between each color divide.  This hid the seam on the face, and it’s barely noticeable on the back.      One thing to note about the back.  I didn’t want to ruin the beauty of the Flame, so I decided not to sew through it.  I marked where the Flame was with a pin, and stopped my seam right at that line.  This made the red layer and gray layer not completely sewn through, but the results are amazing!  You don’t notice the seam isn’t all the way across on the face, and the Flame really stands out without seams going through it!   Step 8: Bias tape   Bias tape comes in many sizes, colors, and materials.  They make a special satin bias tape for quilts—usually seen on blankets made for babies.  The quilting bias tape is a lot thicker and softer than the other types.  It’s a great choice for this project.  However, you can also go with the double sided bias tape.  This has its benefits too.  For one, it’s smaller, so it makes the edges less obtrusive into the final product.  On the other hand, that smaller size makes it more difficult to sew.  Pick which ever one you feel most comfortable with.  You can also customize the color.  Mavin chose yellow to match her fleece backing.  I decided to go with white because it looked the best with the Ajah colors and the black on the back.   If using double sided bias tape, the ideal way to use it is to unfold it and sew down one side first.  This gives you nice, clean seams and you’re sure the catch all layers of the fabric in one go.  It’s also very time consuming.  I chose to sew both sides at once.  It’s more difficult, but cuts the time in half.   First, I left about four inches of the tape un-sewn.      Then, using the clear quilter’s thread, I stitched down the bias tape, making sure to pinch all three layers together as I went.  I stopped every five or six inches to readjust and make sure all the layers were being caught in the thread.    At the corner, sew to the edge and then back stitch a few inches.  Fold the tape at a ninety degree angle and fold under the edge at a forty-five degree angle.  Stitch to the edge of the angle, then with your needle in the down position, lift the foot and rotate the quilt ninety degrees to align with the next side.  This is an easy way to get a nice looking corner!   When you run out of your first bias tape here’s a trick for making it look continuous.  (I used about two and a half packages, meaning I had to sew the tape twice.)  First, stop with at least six inches un-sewn.  Take the new bias tape and the edge of the old tape and unfold all the sides.      Lay them flat together, right side to right side.      Straight stitch them as close to the edge as you can get.      Trim off and excess.  Fold it back under.      Now it looks like it’s all the same tape!  Keep sewing the tape down in the same manner.   Once you get to the end of the quilt, use that same trick to join the very beginning and the end.  Stop about six inches from the end and cut your tape to the correct length needed.      Stitch the bias tapes together, right side to right side, and then fold it all under.  Stitch the seam all the way closed.   And you’re done!         Now you have a great Ajah quilt to snuggle up with, or just to throw over the couch as a way to make visitors ask questions.   Next time, we’ll use the scraps from the quilt to construct an Amyrlin Stole!  Thanks for reading!

<p><!-- isHtml:1 --><p>Welcome to the June Forum Roundup. May you find water and shade. This time of year we have students finishing up their exams and teachers packing up their classrooms. Both are looking to their summer vacations and some well-deserved time off. In <a data-ipb='nomediaparse' href='http://www.dragonmount.com/forums/forum/381-tar-valon/' class="bbc_url" title="">Tar Valon</a> one can find a Midsummer Festival. Members are partaking in such virtual activities as a trip to the beach, trivia, hangman, vacations, and traditions.<p class="bbc_center"><img src="http://www.dragonmount.com/forums/uploads/gallery/album_412/gallery_21251_412_4153.gif" alt="gallery_21251_412_4153.gif"></p>Also in the <a data-ipb='nomediaparse' href='http://www.dragonmount.com/forums/forum/33-the-white-tower-warders-social-group/' class="bbc_url" title="">White Tower Social Group</a>, M’Lady La Fleur is treating us to her artistic creations of collages and quotes with a <em>Wheel of Time</em> theme. You can find her <a data-ipb='nomediaparse' href='http://www.dragonmount.com/forums/topic/97707-realistic-wheel-of-time-collages-%E2%80%93-a-picture-is-worth-a-thousands-words/' class="bbc_url" title="">lovely work</a> here.We hope everyone had a wonderful Father’s Day. The <em>Wheel of Time’s</em> <a data-ipb='nomediaparse' href='http://www.dragonmount.com/forums/topic/98252-best-and-worst-dads-in-wot/' class="bbc_url" title="">best and worst fathers</a> are being analyzed in the general discussion area. It seems the consensus that Tam was a very good dad.<p class="bbc_center"><img src="http://www.dragonmount.com/forums/uploads/gallery/album_412/gallery_21251_412_47788.jpg" alt="gallery_21251_412_47788.jpg"></p><a data-ipb='nomediaparse' href='http://www.dragonmount.com/forums/forum/23-the-black-tower-social-group/' class="bbc_url" title="">The Black Tower</a> is hosting a “Multiball Mafia” for those that enjoy mafia indulgence.If one cares to engage in political discourse, <a data-ipb='nomediaparse' href='http://www.dragonmount.com/forums/forum/11-debates-and-discussions/' class="bbc_url" title="">Debates and Discussions</a> are currently hosting multiple threads of interest. The U.S. election is dominating topics at this time. All over the forums, one can find “Brownie Quests” hosted by Talmanes. Much adventure to be found there. Remember to keep checking <em>Dragonmount </em>for updates on the TV series and other <em>Wheel of Time</em> related news. See you next month!</p></p>

It is time for another installation of "Fan Art Friday," and this month's topic is an ambiguous one: Whitecloaks!  Also called the Children of Light, I for one flip-flopped back and for a few times; are they good or bad?  It almost seemed to depend on which individual you were thinking of.     The first bit of artwork I found made me laugh.  I am almost tempted to make little bookmarks out of it and pass them out at the next JordanCon.   New Children of the Light PSA ~ minniearts   This next piece shows my personal favorite Whitecloak: Galad Damodred.  The style this artist used reminds me of a playing card; deal me in!   The Knight ~ ToranekoStudios   I also wanted to show off a work of art done by one of our own members of Dragonmount!  I think this manga style lends a bit of cuteness to the often stern character that is Galad.   Galad Damodred ~ Dawnflower8   Eamon Valda is one Child of the Light that you don't have to bother asking if he is bad or not.  I think this piece really captures the scorn Valda is so well known for.   Soldier of Light ~ ianxfalcon   My last selection for this week is one that I think captures the real emotion I get from most Children of Light in the series: condescension.  They tend to think that they are better than others, and have a real sense of disdain for anyone who is not one of them.  This I think is captured by the quite literal way in which he is turning his nose up.   Child of Light ~ AndreaRule   That's all for this week; stay tuned for next month's "Fan Art Friday!"

Welcome back to another exciting edition of “Fandom Flair.”  As promised last time, I want to show you how to make really cool (though incredibly warm) Pokémon pajama pants.   Materials needed: About a yard to two yards of fabric Elastic Sewing machine A pair of pajama pants that fit well   Step 1: Find comfortable fitting pajamas This project is easy because you don’t need a pattern.  You simply copy a pair of pajama pants you already own.  And if you’d rather they be pajama shorts, all you do is use shorts at the template.  Super simple.   Step 2: Select your fabric As stated already, I found a fantastic Pokémon fleece.     I bought it on sale, probably $6 a yard.  I purchased two yards, just to be on the safe side.    With projects like these, you can customize your outfit as much as you want.  Would you rather Star Wars pajama pants?  Buy a Star Wars print.  Would you rather flannel instead of fleece?  Buy flannel; the pattern works the same on all types of fabrics.  Would you rather have Pokémon print on one leg and Mario Party on the other?  That’s doable, too!   I like to work with fleece because it’s such an easy fabric.  It doesn’t fray, so you don’t need to worry about hemming.  The lazy side of me loved that there’s less work involved.   Step 3: Trace your pattern I’m going to include pictures from another pair of pajama pants I made since they turned out a bit better.  Those were crafted out of flannel, so you can see how any fabric will work fine.   First, take your existing pair of pants (or shorts) and fold them in half.  Lay your fabric on the floor and fold up one side, just long enough for your folded pants to fit.     Trace with a fabric pen, leaving about an inch in all directions for seam allowance.  One thing to note here: make sure you stretch out the waistband.  Typically, pajama pants have elastic along the waistband which makes the top much smaller than you actually need.  Stretch the waist out as far as it can go, then trace.  Otherwise, the top will be too tight on your stomach.   Once it’s traced, cut out the fabric.      When it’s unfolded, it’ll look nothing like pajama pants.     Step 4: Repeat for the other leg On your fabric, lay flat the piece you just cut.  Trace around it—leaving no room for seam allowance.  Cut it out.  Now you have two identical pieces.     Step 5: Sewing the legs Place these two pieces atop each other, right side to right side.      First, you’re going to sew along the curved line.  Do this on both sides.     Next, you need to open up the fabric and fold it so the two seams you just sewed are touching.      Now, you can see how these will eventually become pants.  Sew a straight stitch from the bottom of one leg, up to the middle, and down the other leg.   Step 6: Adding the elastic For the top hem, fold the waist down wide enough to fit your elastic in.  Sew a straight stitch all the way around, leaving an opening about 2-3 inches wide.      Cut your elastic to be about the length of your waist—when stretched—and add a half an inch.  Using a safety pin, thread the elastic through the casing at the top of the pants.  Once the elastic is pulled all the way through, use your sewing machine and stitch the elastic to itself.      Now you can sew the rest of the waist seam.   Step 7: Hemming the legs Now that you can get the pants on you, find out how long you need the legs to be.  If you’re using fleece, you can simply cut with scissors and be done.  Or, trim the legs an inch longer than they need to be, then fold the hem inside that inch and straight stitch it down.  Do this on both legs.     And you’re done!      This project is so easy to do!  Just imagine all the pajama pants you can have!   Please join us next time when I show you how to make an Ajah inspired blanket!  Thanks for reading!

This edition of “Fantasy Review” is dedicated to Dan Wells’ I Am Not a Serial Killer--the first book in the John Cleaver series.  Technically not a fantasy, but it does fall nicely under the paranormal/horror heading, and I'm okay with that. For those of you who listen to the podcast Writing Excuses (which also features Brandon Sanderson, Mary Robinette Kowal, and Howard Tayler) you know that Dan Wells has a great sense of humor.  That's what makes this book such a switch.  While there is a lot of humor mixed into the story, on a whole, it’s very dark, and kind of disturbing.  Warning: slight spoilers might follow.   I Am Not a Serial Killer Dan Wells   Synopsis: John Wayne Cleaver is not your normal high school student.  He suffers from antisocial personality disorder, and has the three main traits shared by 95% of all serial killers: he wets his bed, he is a pyromaniac, and he is cruel to animals.  But knowing he has the makings of a serial killer inside him steers John down a strange path.  He puts rules in place to ensure he doesn’t kill anyone.  He doesn't want to be a serial killer.     When a real serial killer settles in his small town, John has to break a few of his rules in order to ensure the safety of his fellow humans.  Once John starts breaking the rules, it’s hard for him to stop.  He lets out the monster within him, and now there’s no putting it back inside.   Pros: This book was amazing.  It’s pacing kept me hooked continuously; there was never a moment when things slowed down.  The characters were also developed very well.  Though John suffers from antisocial personality disorder--and that makes him look at life, reality, humanity in a different way--he was still believable and real.  The relationship, or lack of one, that he has with his mother is common.  They acted like a typical family.  And the humor, spaced through the dark and bleak scenes, added depth to this story.  Dan Wells’ use of dark humor was incredible in the short story “I.E.Demon,” and that same grim hilarity is here as well.   Cons: As stated, John has a few issues.  This made him very hard to related to as he made decisions throughout the book.  There were times when I couldn’t believe he was doing what he was doing, or that his thinking didn't coincide with my own.  It distanced me from him, which is risky to do with your main character.  However, these also added to the believable aspects of the world and the story.  Even though I couldn’t get inside John’s head and understand his reasoning, I was fine accepting that someone would behave this way.   This story was also very gruesome.  There’s murder and gore, plus John’s mother is a mortician, so there’s extra dead bodies around.  Though the details aren’t terribly graphic, it’s definitely not for the squeamish.     Conclusion: This is an excellent start to the series, does a fantastic job of introducing a flawed main character, and gets things set up the next book.  The plot was enthralling, and the idiosyncrasies that made up John’s personality drew me in.  I can’t wait to read the second book, “Mr. Monster.”   Rating: 4/5   If you’re interested in picking up a copy of I Am Not a Serial Killer, you can get it here at the Dragonmount eBook store.

We have received the most exciting news possible this month.  There will be a Wheel of Time TV series!   Harriet McDougal (Robert Jordan’s widow/editor) has shared that the issues have been resolved and the rights to the Wheel of Time has been sold to a major studio. Please stay tuned to Dragonmount’s Front Page for further information as it comes in.  Tor's Leigh Butler weighs in on the subject with her picks for casting.     JordonCon was held last month and many of our Dragonmount members were able to attend.  Our very own Jason Denzel was in attendance, as were Brandon Sanderson, Harriet McDougal, and the other members of Team Jordan, Maria Simons, and Alan Romanczuk.  The Author Guest of Honor was Catherine Asaro and the Artist Guest of Honor was John Picacio.   After the opening ceremonies--hosted by the 13th Depository's Linda Taglieri--the events included the Thursday evening Director’s Dinner, the JordonCon Art Show, the Writer’s Workshop, the Costume Contest, and spending lots of time meeting friends, making new friends, and engaging in rollicking fun.   Below you will find some pictures of this year’s JordonCon.               Check out more on JordanCon's official Facebook Photo page.  Or, these beauties by Larry Barthel.  You can also look at Mashiara's photos here.   See you next month!!!

Hallia here, taking over Fan Art Friday!  With a fresh start, we will be looking at one of the most important and trying occupations in existence: the Amyrlin Seat.  There have been many women in this role, with varying degrees of success.  Spoiler Alert; look at your own risk if you have not yet read A Memory of Light.   For our very first piece of art, we have nail art done in the fashion of what the Amyrlin represents: to be of all Ajahs and none.   Wheel of Time Nail Art - The Stole of the Amyrlin Seat and the Flame of Tar Valon ~ The Nailinator   There were several notable Amyrlins from the series that we as readers became familiar with.  The first being Siuan Sanche.   Flame of Tar Valon ~ fee-absinthe   I found this picture to be very interesting because of the medium used.  The small bits of color really are striking meshed in with the scroll-like background!     And after Siuan, there was everyone's ~ahem~ favorite: Elaida.   Elaida Sedai ~ SicilianValkyrie   I find the look on Elaida's face in this piece to be so well done; it captures all the animosity she exuded in the books.     Vying for power against Elaida was my own personal favorite character, Egwene.  I found her to be a great leader and very wise for her age.  Of all the art from this week, this is my favorite.  I find her here just how I picture in my own mind.   Flame of Tar Valon - Egwene Al'vere ~ endave   The final piece is one of Cadsuane.  She is the last known Amyrlin Seat, and is certainly experienced enough for the job.  I think this is shown particularly well in this piece, with her serene face not falling in the chaos around her.   Cadsuane ~ Jieroque   That's all for this week. Stay tuned for next month's edition of Fan Art Friday!

Welcome back to another edition of “Fandom Flair.”  This week, I want to highlight a very easy way to show off your favorite fandom on your shoes.  All you need is fabric! I found this cotton fabric at Joann Fabrics last year. I’ve been a huge lover of Keroppi ever since I was little.  I didn’t have any sort of project in mind, I only knew I needed to own this fabric!   Then I saw a tutorial for covering shoes in fabrics.  It was the perfect way to put my Keroppi fabric to good use.   List of materials: 1/4 yard of fabric Mod Podge glue (or equivalent) Scissors X-Acto knife (optional) Shoes   Step 1: Select fabric You all might not be as big a Sanrio fan as I am, so you might not see the appeal of Keroppi shoes.  But, never fear!  There are so many fandom fabrics available!  If you’re comfortable shopping for fabrics online (which can be tricky since you can’t guarantee colors), try Fabric.com.  You can also do places like Joann or Hobby Lobby, online or in person.  Just a search of online fabrics pulls up everything from Harry Potter, to Star Wars, to Nintendo, and beyond!  You can find a lot of fabrics to fit your fandom needs!   Step 2: Select shoes I used canvas shoes, since I had an old pair with a hole.  I’ve heard that canvas works best; the glue will stick better to this material.  However, I also fastened a lacy fabric to leather shoes, and it worked fine (pictures of this are mixed in below because I had better pictures)!  I suggest using an old pair that you don’t mind if it gets ruined. Step 3: Construct and glue Cut a rectangle out of your fabric that is long and wide enough to fit on your shoe. Next, cut a slit in the center of one of the shorter sides, making sure the slit is long enough to cover the sides of your shoe.   Starting at the toe, use Mod Podge to adhere the fabric to the shoe.  Do just a little bit at a time, no more than an inch in either direction.  It works best if you let it dry for 10-15 minutes (or longer).  But, if you’re impatient, it’s possible to do it all at once—it’s just stickier and messier.  Next, use the Mod Podge to glue down one side of the fabric.  Pay attention and make sure that the strip of fabric on the side touches the rubber sole.  Work your way to the back, leaving the top part of the fabric sticking out over the top of the shoe; we’ll fix that later. At the back, trim your fabric so it’s a little longer than halfway.  Glue it down.  Let it dry. Next, tackle the other side of the shoe, repeating the same steps.  Except, when you get to the back, trim the fabric a little longer and fold under the end seam.  This will create a thick divider between the two sides, similar to how the back of a shoe normally looks. Once they’re all dry, you can start trimming the bottom.  This is where the X-Acto knife comes in handy.  Use it to slice the fabric right at the seam of the sole.  In some shoes, there’s a tiny gap between the sole and the shoe’s material; you can use a pointed object to shove the sliced seam into this gap. If you don’t have an X-Acto knife (and I don’t have one), just use a pair of good, sharp scissors to cut the fabric as close to the sole as possible.  Cut this way completely around the shoe. Next, trim the top half of the fabric down to about an inch above the shoe’s top.  Start where the shoe’s tongue would be.  Cut a slit in the fabric at the corners, allowing you to fold the fabric under the tongue.  If the shoe’s tongue is very curved, you can cut notches into the fabric for easier gluing.  It’s a bit tricky to get the glue on the bottom part of the tongue.  I deposited some glue onto my finger and applied it that way.  Makes a mess, but it got the job done!    I’d suggest waiting for the tongue portion to dry before moving onto the sides. Next, glue the sides down inside the shoe.  Again, I used my finger to apply the glue, as it was a better way to get in at that angle.  Work from the front to the back, and you can let it dry in portions for easier handling.  After your shoe is completely covered—and completely dry—you can add a top layer of Mod Podge to really seal them good.  This makes them look shiny and pretty, but it also hardens the fabric, making the shoes very, very stiff.  This worked fine for my Keroppi shoes—except getting my foot in is a bit of a hassle.  If you left off the top layer, you could simply add a little bit of extra glue around the sole to ensure the fabric won’t come undone.  This would keep the fabric a lot looser and give you a bit more comfort when wearing the shoes.  That's what I did to the lacy pair; they have no rigidity from the glue at all. Next, repeat everything on the other shoe! Now you have two beautiful fandom shoes, ready to wear and be admired! (Or in this case, be worn to a wedding....)  Next week we'll stick with the fabric theme and look at how to make amazingly comfortable Pokemon pajamas!  Thanks for reading!

Harriet McDougal teased us all at the tail end of JordanCon with an announcement about an upcoming announcement. We know now, thanks to Team Jordan's Google+ Page, that the rights for a The Wheel of Time feature/television show have been resolved and they are currently in the works with a major studio. Here is the quote from Harriet: That's all the information we have at the moment. We will update as soon as we learn more. Until then, let's all bask in the joy of knowing that our beloved series will still continue. It's not the beginning, but it's a beginning.